On a warm morning in the rolling hills of Yolo County, Marcus Meadows-Smith weaves through the rows of grapevines at Great Bear Vineyards. He points to a section of the vineyard filled with a climate-resilient, drought-tolerant grape variety developed by the University of California, Davis. With climate change intensifying, these hardy vines are becoming increasingly important for the future of winemaking in California.
“As the climate changes, we will face hotter, drier, and more extreme weather,” Marcus explains, gently holding a still-growing bunch of grapes. “These grapes are thriving—they look vibrant, healthy, and happy.” His gaze reflects both pride and a deep respect for the natural world.
Great Bear Vineyards is operated by Marcus and his wife, Jenny Meadows-Smith, who holds a winemaking certificate from UC Davis’ Continuing and Professional Education program. From planting their first vines in 2014 to releasing their first wines in 2018, the vineyard has quickly earned recognition. Their wines have repeatedly won gold medals at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, and several of their bottlings have scored above 90 points in Wine Enthusiast magazine.
The success of Great Bear challenges a long-held assumption: that high-quality, connoisseur-level wines can only be produced in Napa or Sonoma. Situated in the heart of Yolo County, the vineyard thrives in a region once overlooked by critics, demonstrating that exceptional wines can come from unexpected places. Marcus and Jenny describe their boutique winery as a blend of an English pub and a French bistro, offering world-class wines in a relaxed and welcoming setting.
Marcus spent many years living in the UK, and his initial move to California was motivated by the opportunity to manage an agricultural startup producing biopesticides aimed at reducing the chemical burden of conventional farming. That company was eventually acquired by Bayer, providing him with extensive experience in agriculture and business management. Jenny, formerly a trained synthetic chemist, later worked as a chemical information marketer for the Royal Society of Chemistry. Though she had a strong foundation in chemistry, winemaking was an entirely new field, requiring her to learn viticulture, fermentation science, and the art of bottling from scratch.
“We knew almost nothing about wine,” Jenny recalls, smiling. “I had to learn about fermentation microbiology, some biochemistry, and wine science—how to grow grapes, how to bottle, all of it from the very beginning.” She spent time at UC Davis’ Oakville Research Station in Napa Valley, working with former station manager Mike Anderson to learn the basics of vineyard management, from pruning to monitoring grape health. In the early years of Great Bear, the couple frequently consulted Anderson on how to cultivate high-quality grapes for winemaking.
“We really asked him, ‘Is this worth our effort? Can we grow grapes as good as those in Oakville?’” Jenny recalls. Anderson’s encouraging response has stayed with them: “If you manage it with care, you can grow excellent grapes.” That advice became a guiding principle as they planted roots in Yolo County.
Anderson and several viticulture experts helped the couple design the vineyard according to local climate and soil conditions, selecting rootstocks and grape varieties best suited to the region. While Great Bear Vineyards is relatively young, the land itself has a long history: it has been a family farm since 1860. The Meadows-Smiths purchased the property from descendants of its original European settlers. Many original structures, from old barns to farmhouses, remain intact, bearing witness to the passage of time. Marcus, Jenny, and their four children actively participate in the vineyard’s operations, merging the legacy of the land with modern winemaking practices.
In the vineyard, Marcus inspects the towering grapevines, examining each branch with care. The vines are trained to grow upward in layered tiers, with the main branches several feet off the ground and the tops reaching toward the sky. This vertical arrangement shields the lower grapes from direct sunlight, preventing them from drying out. The open space around the vineyard allows the cool evening breeze from the Sacramento Delta to pass through, creating the ideal combination of hot days and cool nights—conditions that are crucial for producing high-quality grapes.
Great Bear currently produces four white wines and eight red wines. Their annual output is modest, totaling fewer than 100 barrels, with some wines produced in even smaller batches of under 100 cases per season. This small-scale production ensures that each bottle captures the distinct character and meticulous craftsmanship of the vineyard. Marcus points to a block of “errante noir” grapes, a variety developed by viticulture and enology professor Andrew Walker in 2019. Designed for resilience against heat, drought, and Pierce’s disease—a bacterial infection spread by insects that causes vines to wither and drop fruit—these grapes represent the cutting edge of climate-adapted viticulture. Pierce’s disease alone costs California grape growers millions of dollars annually. Walker’s research focuses not only on disease resistance but also on maintaining grape quality, demonstrating that innovation and tradition can coexist.
“These varieties are still being studied, but they’re performing well across the state,” Walker says. “They haven’t been widely planted yet, and they haven’t encountered Pierce’s disease. They’re very region-specific.” From large-scale commercial operations to boutique vineyards like Great Bear, these new grape varieties are gradually being incorporated into more sustainable farming practices. Part of Great Bear’s vineyard is certified organic, while the rest follows sustainable viticulture guidelines. In 2023, the vineyard’s dedication to organic and sustainable agriculture earned it the International Sustainable Agriculture Award at the World Bio-Agro Conference in Rio de Janeiro.
“We can’t spray synthetic pesticides, so we have to rely on natural resources to manage disease pressure as much as possible,” Marcus explains. To combat the effects of climate change on grape growth, the couple experiments with cover crops, soil microbiome management, and smart irrigation systems, which not only enhance grape health but also reduce environmental impact. Walker emphasizes that climate change will remain a long-term challenge for winemakers worldwide. “There’s no doubt that the climate is becoming more unpredictable. This isn’t just about high temperatures—it’s also about how long heat persists and how water resources are managed. We need to plan ahead and think carefully about how to respond.”
The story of Great Bear Vineyards is not just about growing grapes and producing wine. It is about the fusion of science, tradition, and culture. Marcus and Jenny apply scientific principles to maintain a healthy vineyard while also nurturing a lifestyle that embraces family, community, and sustainability. Each bottle of wine reflects not only the terroir of the land but also the values of those who cultivate it.
Today, as the morning sun filters through the vineyard and the gentle breeze rustles the leaves, the grapes at Great Bear slowly ripen under the careful attention of the Meadows-Smith family. For them, running a vineyard is more than a profession—it is a way of life, a practice of patience, respect for nature, and forward-thinking in a rapidly changing world. Each harvest reaffirms their belief that with care and dedication, the land will reward them with fruit, and the wine will carry the unique essence of time, place, and human devotion.
The Meadows-Smiths are also exploring ways to engage visitors more directly with the vineyard experience, from guided tours that explain sustainable farming practices to intimate wine tastings that highlight each varietal’s story. They hope to inspire a deeper appreciation for the intricate balance between climate, soil, grape, and human craftsmanship. In an era of increasing uncertainty, Great Bear stands as a testament to resilience, innovation, and the enduring allure of wine crafted with heart and intelligence.